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Magnolia Cloud Forest Offers Close, Easy Escape
By Lauren Wolkoff
Tico Times Staff
A surefire remedy for San José's chronic traffic headaches
and pollution can be found just over an hour's drive from
the city.
The Magnolia Cloud Forest Preserve, which you'll find in
El Empalme del Guarco, high in the Cerro de la Muerte mountains
above Cartago - is no "day of beauty" at a high-end
salon, but you'll arrive home feeling refreshed and invigorated
all the same.
While easily accessible from San José via a scenic
drive through the Cordillera Central mountain chain, La Magnolia's
one cabin and its lush surroundings have the feel of an isolated
hideaway. Owners Mario Pérez and Lara Putnam advise
prospective visitors that an experience at this eco-tourism
project is "low-key, personal and often muddy."
That means bring your waterproof hiking boots (or be sure
to borrow a pair from your hosts' collection), because the
38-hectare primary cloud forest is indeed as muddy as it is
pastoral, especially during the May-November "wet"
season.
The property boasts a diversity of species rivaling that
of the world-renowned Monteverde Cloud Forest Biological Reserve
in Guanacaste, but sits at a significantly higher altitude
of 7,000 feet above sea level.
Dominated by towering native oak trees that stand out against
a green carpet of native vegetation, Finca La Magnolia offers
a variety of trails skirting the edges of the 15,000-acre
Tapantí National Wildlife Refuge.
Whether you're looking for a weekend escape, a rigorous day-long
hike or a bird watching tour at dawn, Pérez and Putnam
can tailor the activities to your mood.
Pérez, who morphs between the roles of driver, tour
guide and host, describes the area as perfect for branching
out into the sights around Cartago, among them the Irazú
Volcano, the Orosi Valley, the Lankester Botanical Gardens
or working coffee farms.
The region is also dotted with trout farms - ponds that are
open for visitors who wish to catch their own lunch.
"Our clients determine their own agenda," Pérez
said. "There is plenty to do on the property, but we
also hire outside guides for people who want to explore the
area."
La Magnolia's cozy centerpiece is the rustic hand-built wooden
cabin, which houses a kitchen with a cast-iron stove, a bathroom
(with hot water) and a loft that comfortably sleeps three
adults.
Recently, Pérez and Putnam annexed another room, which
- with space for a family of four - has its own bathroom (also
with hot water) and freestanding fireplace, but no electricity.
Sleeping bags and extra blankets are provided for protection
against the brisk night air.
With so much to see and do here, mornings are not to be wasted.
Guests awake to breakfast of eggs, homemade bread, fruit,
fresh coffee and the ubiquitous gallo pinto (rice and beans),
all set out invitingly on the porch by the hosts.
Depending on your itinerary, lunch and/or dinner - both generous
meals of more Costa Rican specialties - are also included
in the experience. Hikers can also enjoy hot coffee and pastries
at La Magnolia's mirador (lookout point), which offers views
of regenerating cloud forest, the Central Valley and the Irazú
Volcano in the distance.
A day tour at La Magnolia costs $90 per person in high season,
including transportation, breakfast, afternoon coffee and
a guided hikes. The rate drops to $70 per person during low
season.
An overnight stay costs $130 per person, including transportation,
meals and hikes. Student discounts are available and children
are welcome.
Getting There:
As there is only one cabin and as directions are complicated
- even by Tico standards - Pérez and Putnam recommend
arranging transportation through them when you make your reservation.
For more information, call (506) 225-7675. The fax number
is 253-8760. E-mail magnolia@sol.racsa.co.cr, or visit their
recently revamped Web site www.magnoliacloudforest.com.
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